Figuring out how to transport an outboard motor without making a total mess of your car or damaging the engine is a skill every boater needs to learn eventually. Whether you're moving a little 2.5hp kicker or a beefier 20hp portable, these things are surprisingly awkward, heavy, and full of fluids that would much rather be on your upholstery than inside the engine.
It's not just about muscle, though. There's a bit of science—and a lot of common sense—involved in making sure your motor arrives in one piece and, more importantly, actually starts when you get to the water.
Start with a Little Preparation
Before you even think about lifting that motor, you've got to deal with the fuel. Gasoline has a way of finding its way out of the tiniest vents, and that smell will linger in your SUV for weeks if you aren't careful.
If your motor has an internal tank, try to run it dry or use a siphon to get as much out as possible. For those using external tanks, disconnect the fuel line while the engine is still running and let it die on its own. This clears out the carburetor, which is a lifesaver for preventing gummed-up jets and it also keeps fuel from spilling out of the intake during the drive.
Also, give the motor a quick rinse if you've been in saltwater. Salt is a slow-motion wrecking ball for metal, and you don't want it dripping onto your truck bed or into your carpet. Dry it off with an old rag so it's not slippery when you go to grab it.
The Golden Rule of Laying It Down
If you aren't lucky enough to have a dedicated motor stand or a trailer, you're probably going to be laying the motor down on its side. This is where most people get into trouble, especially with four-stroke engines.
On a four-stroke, the oil sits in a sump. If you lay the motor on the wrong side, that oil can flow into the cylinders, the intake, or even the air filter. This leads to a nightmare scenario called "hydrolock," where the engine won't turn over because liquid doesn't compress like air does.
So, which side is the right side? Most modern outboards actually have little "feet" or molded bumps on the side that's meant to face down. Usually, this is the tiller handle side. You want the tiller handle facing down toward the floor of your vehicle. If you're unsure, look for a sticker on the cowling; most manufacturers put a small diagram right there to show you how to lay it. Never, ever lay it down with the propeller higher than the powerhead, as that's a surefire way to get water or oil where it shouldn't be.
Using a Motor Stand for the Win
If you have the space, the absolute best way to handle how to transport an outboard motor is to keep it upright. A motor stand is a game-changer here. You can buy a folding one or even build one out of some 2x4s and a bit of plywood if you're handy.
Keeping the motor vertical solves almost every problem. The oil stays where it belongs, the fuel is less likely to leak, and it's much easier to secure. If you have a pickup truck, you can often strap a motor stand against the front of the bed. This keeps the engine safe and leaves you plenty of room for your coolers, fishing tackle, and whatever else you're hauling.
Padding and Protecting Your Interior
Let's be honest: outboards are greasy. Even the cleanest-looking engine has some grease on the swivel bracket or oil residue near the exhaust. If you're putting this in the back of a nice SUV or a van, you need a serious barrier.
Don't just use a thin sheet. Grab a couple of those heavy-duty moving blankets or an old piece of carpet. You want something thick enough to absorb a potential drip but also something that can cushion the motor against vibrations. If the motor shifts while you're driving, you don't want the metal skeg or the prop cutting a hole in your floor mats.
I usually like to wrap the lower unit in a heavy-duty trash bag or a dedicated motor cover as well. This catches any residual water that might drain out of the cooling system after you've tilted it. Even if you think it's dry, there's always a little bit of water hiding in the water pump or the midsection.
Securing the Load
Once the motor is in position, you can't just leave it there and hope for the best. A 60-pound chunk of metal becomes a dangerous projectile if you have to slam on the brakes.
Use ratchet straps if you have tie-down points. Bungee cords are okay for keeping a lid on a cooler, but they aren't strong enough for an outboard. Loop a strap around the midsection of the motor (the "leg") and tighten it down so the motor can't slide forward or side-to-side.
If you're laying it down, try to wedge it between other gear or use sandbags to keep it from rolling. An outboard is top-heavy because the powerhead contains most of the weight, so it really wants to tip over if it's not braced properly.
Special Considerations for Two-Strokes
If you're rocking an older two-stroke motor, you have it a bit easier. Since the oil is mixed with the gas, you don't have to worry about a crankcase full of oil ruining your day. However, two-strokes are notorious for leaking unburned fuel and oil out of the exhaust and the prop hub.
Even though you can technically lay them on either side, it's still best to keep the powerhead elevated slightly higher than the prop. This ensures that any liquid stays in the lower unit rather than trickling back up into the engine block.
What to Do Once You Arrive
The job isn't quite done once you pull into the boat ramp or your driveway. The first thing you should do is get that motor back into a vertical position as soon as possible.
If the motor was laying down, let it sit upright on the boat or a stand for at least 15 to 20 minutes before you try to start it. This gives any oil that might have shifted a chance to drain back down into the sump. If you try to pull the starter cord and it feels "stuck" or incredibly hard to pull, stop immediately. That's a sign of oil in the cylinders. Pull the spark plugs out, lay a rag over the holes, and pull the starter cord a few times to clear the oil out before trying again.
Keeping It Simple
At the end of the day, learning how to transport an outboard motor is mostly about being proactive. A little bit of extra time spent draining the carb and double-checking which side the motor should lay on will save you hours of cleaning or expensive repair bills later.
Treat the motor like it's a piece of fragile equipment—which it is, despite how rugged it looks—and it'll keep pushing your boat for years to come. Just remember: tiller side down, keep it padded, and never trust a bungee cord to do a ratchet strap's job. Happy boating!